ENVIRO CORK:
Installation instructions for Enviro Cork floating floors

These cork flooring instructions are guidelines only and if you are confused by any of these instructions we recommend you contact a local contractor. All product warranties do not cover problems due to improper installation.

> General Information
> Tools for installing the floor
> Optimal preparation
> The Base
> The Underfloor
> Correct Installation
> The Final Row
> Pipes
> Underneath Doorframes
> Finishing
> Precautions
> Cleaning
> Underfloor Heating
> Considerations for various rooms

• For optimal results, it is imperative that the installation instructions are strictly followed.
• Laminate flooring is not suitable for use in areas such as bathrooms, saunas, etc.
• Check the contents of all packages before and during the installation. Floorboards with visible defects may not be installed.
• Floorboards with the Timber Clic can be installed in 2 different ways:

1. The floorboards can be rotated to fit into each other (tongue into groove, or groove into tongue). However, the easiest way is to fit the tongue into the groove. (The following installation instructions are based on using this installation technique as much as possible. Installing the groove onto the tongue is only necessary in a few specific cases).
   
   Position the floorboard to be installed at an angle of 20-30° to the board that has already been installed. When fitting the floorboard, move it upwards and downwards slightly, and push it forwards at the same time. The floorboards will then click into place.
2. In some cases, the floorboards cannot be rotated when they are installed, for example, underneath a doorframe. In this case, the floorboards can also be installed flat. IMPORTANT! For this, you require a hammer and a tapping block.
   
   You should not attempt to knock the Clic joint into place with a single hit. For the short edge, you must tap several times until the floorboards click together completely. For the long edge, you must work gradually: you start tapping gently at the corner of the floorboard until the joint has closed, and repeat this action every 30 cm (12") until the entire long side of the floorboard has clicked together completely.
   

• The floor should preferably be installed so that the incoming light is parallel with the floorboards.
• The ideal conditions are 15-20° C (60-68° F) and a relative humidity of 50-60%.
• Check that:

1. The doors can still be opened and closed after installing the floor with underfloor (minimum + 1 cm, 3/8")
2. The doorframes may have to be adapted in order to install the floor underneath them
3. The old skirting boards can be removed
   

• The moisture content of the concrete must be less than 2.5 % (CM method). A freshly poured cement screed (topping) must dry for at least 1 week per cm (3/8") of thickness up to 4 cm (1 5/8"), and for 2 weeks per cm of thickness above (1 5/8"), and be adequately ventilated. (A 6 cm [2 3/8"] thick topping must therefore dry for at least 8 weeks). The moisture content of an anhydrite floor may not exceed 0.5%.
• In the case of floor heating, the moisture content must be less than 1.5 % (CM method). In this case, special installation instructions are applicable. See special section below.

• In the case of a damp-proof floor covering (PVC, linoleum, etc), laminate flooring may be installed on the existing floor covering.
  
• In the case of a moisture-open floor covering (carpet, needled felt, etc), the existing floor covering must first be removed.
  
  

• First remove any existing floor covering.
• The wooden floor must be sufficiently stable. Any loose parts must be nailed down and, if necessary, a leveling underfloor must be installed.
• The moisture content of the wood must not exceed 10%.
• The creeping space underneath the wooden floor must be adequately ventilated: first remove any obstacles and provide adequate ventilation (minimum of 4 cm©x [5/8 in©x] total ventilation holes per m©x [10.76 sq ft] floor).
• Install the new laminate flooring across the old boards.
  
  

• It is imperative to use a leveling underfloor in order to completely remove any unevenness in the base. ONLY use the underfloor system, a membrane consisting of a damp-proof 150 µ PE membrane and a 3 mm (1/8") PE underfloor layer, fitted with an overlapping flap and self-adhesive strip. Follow the accompanying instructions when installing this membrane.
• Install the membrane, allowing it to run up the wall. This is the surface onto which the skirting board will finally be fixed, before the membrane is cut off at this level.

• Wood is the primary constituent of Laminate floorboards. Since the humidity can vary in a room due to seasonal differences, e.g. between summer and winter, it is imperative that the floor can expand in all directions. This expansion can be as much as 2 mm (1/8") per meter (3' 3"). The larger the surface, the more space is required for expansion. ALL the sides of the floor must be able to expand or contract. To enable this, an expansion gap of at least 8 to 10 mm (3/8") must be allowed for at the walls.
• This expansion gap must also be allowed for around pipes or thresholds.
• In the case of larger surface areas, a wider gap must be allowed for, e.g. underneath a double wall.
• Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Wherever possible, provide expansion gaps, e.g. underneath doors. These expansion gaps are covered by a profile that is not secured to the wooden flooring, but to the base floor.
• It is preferable to install the floorboards in the same direction as the longest wall, so that the incoming light is parallel with the floorboards (visually more attractive). You can start installing the floor in one corner or in the middle of the room. You can also work from left to right, or from right to left.
• Always remember that the "tongue-in-groove system" is the easiest way method of installation.

• Always ensure that there is a 10 mm (3/8") expansion gap between the final row and the wall.
• When doing this, remember that you have to saw off the long edges of the final row of floorboards.
• Install these floorboards one at a time next to the boards of the penultimate row and tap the long edges together using the pinch bar and hammer. Use the tapping block to tap the short edges together.

• Ensure that in the row where there is a pipe, the pipe is positioned exactly at the transverse joint of two floorboards. Take a drill bit that has the same diameter as the pipe + 20 mm (3/4") for the expansion. Click the floorboards together at the short edge and drill the hole so that the centre of the hole is positioned where the two floorboards join. Now install the floorboards as part of the floor.

• Saw the floorboards so that after they have been installed, there is an expansion gap that is at least 10 mm (3/8") wide.
• When you cannot rotate the floorboard, use a pinch bar or tapping block and hammer to tap the boards together.

• After installing the floor, you can immediately start walking on the floor and begin finishing it off. This is one of the major advantages of the laminate flooring.
• Remove all spacer blocks.
• Fix the skirting boards to the plastic membrane overlapping up from the floor. Never secure the skirting boards to the floor (so that the floor can expand and contract underneath the skirting board).
• Finish the gaps around pipes with rosettes.
• In places where profiles or skirting boards cannot be placed, you must fill the expansion gap with an elastic filler paste.

• Protect furniture and chair legs with felt or plastic caps.
• Prevent dirt, water and sand from being brought inside by placing a mat at the door.
• Use wheelchairs with soft wheels, suitable for hard floors.
• Ensure that the level of humidity in the room is between 50 % and 65%. If necessary, use an adequate humidifier.

• The laminate flooring is based on a watertight-glued HDF board that has a low level of swelling. NOTE: Despite the relatively moisture-proof nature of Timber Clic floorboards, excess water must be immediately removed.
• WET CLEANING IS ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN!
• The smooth surface of laminate flooring is resistant to dust and dirt. Dry cleaning is therefore best carried out using a duster or vacuum cleaner.
• Slightly damp cleaning is possible by wiping over with clean water, or with a Hardwood cleaning product that has been diluted in water. (Never use other cleaning products or detergents!)
• Only use a well wrung-out cloth. Always wipe dry immediately until no more moisture is visible on the floor.
• Use a little methanol or methylated spirit to carefully remove stubborn stains.
• Never use any scouring products!

• Unless otherwise expressly stated, the general installation instructions described above remain applicable.
• The maximum permissible thermal resistance (R) of a floorcovering on underfloor heating is 0.15 (EN4725). In this respect, take account of the sum total of the thermal resistance of all materials that are installed on top of floor heating: the floorboards themselves and all underfloors on which these are installed.
• The respective values for the laminate flooring and the underfloor are 0.075 and 0.053; total, 0.128.
• Provide the necessary expansion gaps. Never install lengths over 10 m. (33 ft.)
• The type of cement screeding and the way in which it is applied, in combination with the floor heating, must comply with the instructions provided by the suppliers of the screeding and the floor heating.
• In order to obtain an even temperature across the entire floor, the distance between the heating elements may not exceed 30 cm. The heating engineer will determine the depth of the elements.
• The concrete floor or the cement screeding must be DRY enough (maximum 1.5%, measured using the CM method), before the floorboards can be installed. In the case of anhydrite screeding, this value is 0.5%.
• In the case of newly applied screeding... you must wait at least 21 days before switching on the floor heating. The concrete and screeding must dry without the aid of the floor heating! The water temperature may only be increased by 5°C (10°F) per day over a period of 2 weeks to 50% of capacity, and to 100% of capacity during the last 2 days before installing the floor. This is also applicable during the summer! A period of at least 2 weeks must elapse between the start of the heating up period and the installation of the floor. When starting to install the floorboards, the surface temperature may not exceed 18°C. For this, the water temperature must be decreased in maximum steps of 5°C per day until this surface temperature is reached.
• In the case of a newly applied cement screeding... with regard to the starting up period, follow the guidelines stated by your heating engineer who must provide you with the completed warming-up protocol.
• When installing laminate flooring floorboards on top of existing floor heating... the floor temperature must not exceed 18°C. After installing the floor, wait at least 24 hours before gradually (5°C per day) restarting the heating. The maximum permissible surface temperature of the floor is 28°C. The maximum hot water temperature is 50°C.
• At the start and the end of a heating period... the temperature of the water must always be increased or decreased in steps of 5°C per day.
• During the heating period... it must be ensured that the relative air humidity in the rooms is not too low. At 18-22°C, the relative air humidity must be at least 50%. The use of an adequate air humidification system can help in this respect.
• Always prevent the accumulation of heat... due to installing carpets on the floor or not leaving adequate space between furniture and the floor.

Kitchens:
If the kitchen is getting all new cabinets, put the cabinets in first. This also applies in other rooms where built-ins are planned. Logic says to put your cork flooring in first, with the cabinets on top so there is no trim needed around the cabinets. Many cabinet manufacturers install a 5/8” thick toe kick, which can be installed after your cork flooring is installed. This eliminates the need for quarter round along the base of the cabinets except at exposed gable ends. The weight of the cabinets (or built-ins) can actually pin your cork flooring down, not allowing it to float as needed with expansion and contraction. It is very important to maintain a minimum gap of 3/8” between your cork flooring and all walls, cabinets, transition strips etc.

When moving appliances across a cork floor, you will need to put plywood down and create path to the location of appliance. Please be extremely careful since sliding heavy objects could gouge or damage your flooring. Never slide or move appliances over cork floors without glider sheets underneath. Typically, your cork floor should be placed only under the front feet of the dishwasher and stove.

If your cork floor is pre finished, you do not need to apply additional polyurethane but it is a good idea to consider sealing the seams.  We recommend contacting a professional to tackle this part of the job.  Always check for compatibility between the existing floor and new polyurethane prior to recoating.

Bathrooms:
The same rules apply to bathrooms as kitchens. The main difference is the toilet. Always remove the toilet, and tile up to the flange. When reinstalling the toilet it may be necessary to install 2 wax rings, one on top of the other, or get an extender kit, which is simply a larger wax ring. It is always a good idea to change the supply line to the tank at this time. It is highly recommended that you seal your cork flooring with several coats of polyurethane after installation and caulk all edges to create a water tight cork floor and protect from humidity.

Stairs:
Floating floors can be glued to wood stairs with a multi purpose glue and a urethane glue for other types of stairs. Edges can be covered up with stair trim.

Hallways into bedrooms or from room to room:
Whenever installing cork flooring in multiple areas that are adjoining through a doorway, it is recommended to physically separate the cork floors at the opening. For example, if you were doing a hallway and three bedrooms, you would be doing 4 smaller cork floors tied together with the T-molding. The tiles should be installed in such a way that when the T-molding is installed between them, it falls directly under the door when it is closed. If the opening has no door, simply place the T-molding in the center of the opening. Remember to maintain the gap between your cork flooring and the base of the T-molding.

Offices:
If rolling chairs are used at desks, place a plastic floor mat under the chair. Be sure to use the mat that does not have the pointed nubs on the bottom that will puncture your cork flooring.

Existing Fireplace hearths:
Fireplace hearths are an area that follows the same rules as walls and cabinets. A gap needs to be maintained between the cork floor and the hearth. Typically, a molding can be placed between your cork flooring and the hearth to give a nice finished look.

Installation over radiant heat
Only floating floors should be installed over radiant heat systems. Floating floors tend to go through normal contraction and expansion as a unit since they are not attached to the sub-floor. Glue down cork floors are not recommended due to the adhesive used to adhere the flooring to the sub-floor.

Certain precautions need to be taken to minimize the contraction and expansion. Prior to installation, the slab needs to be heated and maintained at desired room temperature for 48 to 72 hours with the flooring in the room to acclimate. Please leave radiant heat on for 24 hours after installation is complete.

Maintenance:
The type and frequency of maintenance to be applied to APC CORK flooring will vary depending on the type and amount of traffic on the floor.
• Sweep, vacuum or clean with a damp mop or cloth on a regular basis.
• Never pour water directly on the cork floor.
• Remove liquids and spills immediately.
• Protect floor covering by using felt protectors on chairs and other pieces of furniture.

On a “need to” basis, it is recommended that the floor be cleaned with a recommended floor cleaning solution. Example: A hardwood cleaner or any neutral floor cleaner (follow manufacturer’s recommendation).

Note: Cork is a natural product, thus it is normal to observe minor color shading between panels and slight discoloration from prolonged exposure to sunlight.

Any heavy furniture and chairs should have thick felt pads placed on the feet to help disburse the weight. Heavier objects such as pianos and pool tables may require a large pad under the feet. This will help to reduce denting of your cork flooring. If a piano is left unprotected in one spot, the cork floor will actually crush, ruining the cork floor tile.

If heavy items are on wheels (pianos, big screen TV’s etc) they should not be rolled directly on the cork floor. Always put a piece of plywood with a packing quilt underneath to move these objects. Heavy enough objects will even dent wood floors.

Routine cleaning should be done only with Bona Kemi Hardwood floor cleaners. No harsh detergents containing any vinegars, pastes, or waxes should be used.

Over time, the urethane layer will wear, as on any floor of this nature. It is important to have your cork flooring recoated before the urethane is worn completely off.

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